Uzbek Joypush Ruijo Shahrisabz–Kashkadarya

Description

Rare 19th-Century Uzbek Silk-on-Silk Joypush / Ruijo

Shahrisabz–Kashkadarya Region, Uzbekistan
Second Half of the 19th Century, circa 1870–1890

Silk embroidery on a yellow silk ground
220 × 140 cm

A rare and exceptionally attractive 19th-century Uzbek Joypush / Ruijo, belonging to the celebrated tradition of Central Asian bridal embroidery

The textile is entirely hand worked in silk embroidery on a yellow silk ground, an especially refined combination. Its decoration is arranged around a large open central field, with a broad architectural border composed of magnificent radiating floral rosettes linked by vigorously drawn scrolling and branching motifs.

The large rosettes display a particularly sophisticated palette of deep purple, violet, apricot, pale blue, ivory and warm orange, strongly contrasted against the golden-yellow silk foundation. Black embroidered stems and curling, horn-like tendrils provide structure to the composition and create a striking visual rhythm between the individual floral medallions.

Function and Symbolism

Although textiles of this general family are widely known in the West as Suzani, the composition of the present example strongly suggests the more specific ceremonial function of a Joypush or related Ruijo – a textile associated with the traditional Uzbek bridal bed.

Ethnographic literature describes Joypush, Ruijo, Yakkandoz and related embroideries as important elements of wedding furnishings. Characteristically, the decoration could be concentrated around the visible portions of the textile while a substantial part of the field remained undecorated.

The distinctive open centre of the present textile should therefore be understood as an intentional element of its original design rather than as unfinished embroidery.

References

R. Ya. Rassudova, Uzbek Decorative Stitches, Tashkent, 1961.

O. A. Sukhareva, studies on the history and regional development of Uzbek decorative embroidery.

Zilola Nasyrova, “Local Features of Traditional Embroidery of Kashkadarya,” San’at – Journal of the Academy of Arts of Uzbekistan, 2010.

Cultural Legacy of Uzbekistan in the World Collections, Vol. XII, The Collection of the State Museum of the History of Religion.

Cultural Legacy of Uzbekistan in the World Collections, Vol. XIII, The Collection of the State Museum of Arts of Uzbekistan.

Cultural Legacy of Uzbekistan in the World Collections, Vol. XVI, The Collection of the Czech Republic.

Intangible Cultural Heritage of Uzbekistan, “Kashtachilik (Embroidery),” documentation of traditional Uzbek embroidery and its principal textile forms